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Retirement Planning and the Younger Spouse

Adjust savings and withdrawals with the age gap in mind

Retirement planning advice for married couples tends to assume two things: You’re pretty close to each other in age (with the husband perhaps a year or two older), and the husband has always been the primary breadwinner. But in this age of late marriages, divorce and second marriages, what if there’s a much younger spouse? Large age gaps between spouses require planning.

I asked several personal-finance advisers what their advice would be. Here are their thoughts.

Expect to work longer

You may have to stay employed past the typical retirement age in order to build up a larger pot of savings. If, for example, your spouse is 55 and you die, your nest egg may have to fund your spouse for 40 years. For investment growth, allocate a higher percentage of your financial assets to stocks. If that makes you nervous, you’ll have to plan on a lower level of spending — which is the hardest thing for clients to understand, says Alex Feick of Paragon Capital Management in Denver.

Plan to spend less

If you are a typical retired couple, you can afford to spend 4 percent of your savings in the first year and give yourself a raise for inflation in each subsequent year. But with a much younger spouse, you should drop your withdrawal rate to perhaps 3 percent, says Aaron Parrish of Triad Financial Advisors in Greensboro, N.C.

Reduce withdrawals

At 70½, you have to start taking money out of an individual retirement account. If your spouse is more than 10 years younger, you can reduce the required withdrawals — and stretch your savings — by using the IRS’s joint life expectancy table to calculate the amounts.

Mind the insurance gap

If the older spouse carries the couple’s health insurance and switches to Medicare at 65, the younger spouse will need to buy an individual health policy. Currently, it’s an uncertain market, with premiums going up.

Adjust your Social Security

Spouses with big age differences should generally approach Social Security as if they were single, says Bill Reichenstein of SocialSecuritySolutions.com, a website that helps you maximize your benefits. If you have health issues and don’t expect a long life, take Social Security at 62. Otherwise, wait until 70.

Consider life insurance

If you haven’t saved enough, look into a 20-year term life insurance to cover your spouse’s future needs. You can get it even at 65, if your health is good. Check the rates at term4sale.com.

Plan your pension

If you’ll get a company pension, don’t take the lump sum payment when you retire unless your spouse is already well provided for. Instead, take the maximum joint and survivor option. It will pay your surviving spouse 100 percent of your pension for life.

The younger spouse might find his or her career interrupted and savings slashed due to the needs of an aging spouse for medical and personal care, warns Susan Pack of Pomeroy Financial Planning in Cincinnati. It’s something to account for in your financial planning — and all the more reason to manage your spending and save the max.

(Originally published in The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)

Is Marriage a Good Financial Move for Older Couples?

It’s not as clear as you might think

Thousands of same-sex couples flocked to say “I do” as soon as their right to marry became the law of the land. Thousands of others, however, considered their options, yawned and stayed home. The case for marriage isn’t as solid as it often sounds, especially for older couples of any sex. Sometimes it pays to live together in unwedded bliss.

Those who tie the knot summon traditional values and romance — flowers, rings and a whale of a party. Financially, marriage provides access to state and federal spousal and survivor benefits, including Social Security. You’ll get Medicare if you didn’t qualify on your own. Spouses have a right to inherit if their mate dies without a will (but surely, nobody reading this column lacks a will!). You can generally make medical decisions for each other even though you neglected to sign an official health care proxy. You get better tax benefits when inheriting an individual retirement account and might even save some money by filing a joint income-tax return.

Sometimes, however, marriage comes at a cost. Widows and widowers of public employees who receive a pension might lose it if they remarry. That’s also true of certain veterans benefits. Before marrying, check your plan’s rules, taking nothing for granted. If you’re collecting survivor benefits on a late spouse’s Social Security account, you’ll lose them if you remarry before you reach 60 (50 if disabled). You can keep them if you remarry at a later age, but you might become eligible for better benefits on your new spouse’s account at age 62 or older. Ask Social Security what your options are and which choice will produce the higher check.

You don’t have to walk down the aisle to get many of the protections of marriage. A “living together” agreement, legally signed and notarized, provides for the division of property if you break up. A will can provide a partner with financial support. You can designate your partner as your health care advocate, if that’s your choice. Marriage might not even improve your financial security if you both have adequate pensions and Social Security earnings. In some cases, filing jointly might drive your tax bill up.

Here’s another reason not to marry: In many states, spouses are responsible for each other’s medical bills — potentially including bills for long-term care. These laws generally trump any prenuptial agreement. So how is your beloved’s health? Does he or she have long-term care insurance? Unless one of you lost a previous spouse after a long illness, these potential expenses probably aren’t on your radar screen.

State Medicaid programs cover most or all of the nursing-home expenses for people of modest incomes and assets. The spouse who is well keeps the house, car and a certain amount of income and other assets, but might have to surrender property of higher value to help pay the bills. A live-in partner would not be liable but would lose the use of the ill partner’s income and assets, including possibly the home. Meet with an elder-care attorney to see what your options are. To find one locally, try the National Academy of Elder Law Attorneys.

In relationships, feelings ultimately rule. Marriage confers social approval and a sense of security. Living together reflects the trust built up over many companionable years. But it is best to know how that choice affects your finances.

(Originally published in The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)

Risky Pension Bets

You might be making one if you take a lump sum early

Would you rather have a monthly pension guaranteed for life or a lump sum of money now? Before I address that question, let me say that you’re lucky if you have the choice. Private pensions are on the way out, even among old-line companies. In older age, there’s nothing more comfortable than a check in the mail every month.

Normally, you’re not offered the choice of a pension or lump sum until you retire. Rising numbers of companies, however, are extending this offer to former employees who haven’t taken their vested pensions yet. They want to shift the burden of retirement investing over to you.

In fact, they’d like to get rid of you in the next 12 months.

That’s because the size of your pension or lump sum depends, in part, on how long the people in your age group are expected to live. Currently, pension plans are using outdated life expectancy tables. Starting in 2017, however, they’ll have to use newer tables, which show that people are living longer. That will require them to pay you more. Hence the rush.

If you take a lump sum in place of a lifetime monthly pension, you’re making at least one of three risky bets.

Bet 1: You are betting that you can provide yourself (and your spouse) with a guaranteed monthly income for life that’s at least as high as you’d get from your pension. To check this, go to a website such as immediateannuities.com, which shows you what insurance company annuities pay. Enter the lump sum you’re being offered, your age and when you want the payments to start, then choose the type of annuity you want. Compare that payment with your vested monthly pension amount. Odds are, the pension will pay you substantially more, especially if you’re a woman, says Tony Webb, senior economist at the Center for Retirement Research at Boston College.

Bet 2: That your life span will be shorter than average. The lump sum is intended to last your expected lifetime, not your actual lifetime. If you live longer, you’ll need extra money in reserve.

Bet 3: That you can invest the lump sum in stocks and bonds and earn even more than the pension will pay. To check this, look at the “interest rate” in the fine print of your lump sum offer. (If it’s not there, ask the company for it.) Your investments have to grow by at least that percentage annually, after fees, to equal a pension that covers an average lifetime and much more, if you live longer than that.

Lump sums make sense if you’re terminally ill, if you have so much in other savings that you’ll never have to worry about running out of money or if the amount is small. To avoid taxes, roll the money into an individual retirement account.

But to assure yourself of an income for life, without taking stock market risk, pensions are hard to beat.

If the lump sum offer confuses you or leaves you anxious, don’t take it, says Ari Jacobs, senior retirement solutions leader at the benefits consultant Aon Hewitt. “You’ll be in the same spot you were before.”

For more information, go to pensionrights.org. In the search box, type in “Should you take your pension as a lump sum?”

(Originally published in The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)

Personal Financial Planning 101

How to take those first steps in dealing with your money issues

How do you learn about personal finance? This question came from a reader tussling with money issues that were new to her. You can pay the bills and manage a checking account for years without ever having to confront planning and investment issues.

From a distance, those issues look mysterious, even impenetrable. Anyone with math anxiety shies away. But personal finance is not — not! — about math. If it were, I’d be in a different line of work. I’m terrible even at arithmetic (embarrassing but true).

Successful personal planning depends on old-fashioned common sense. That means listing your priorities in life and using super-simple financial strategies to get you there. You don’t even have to think about investing your savings until you’ve figured out the basics. And forget about the complex stuff, like variable annuities. You never, ever have to consider an investment that’s complex. Believe me, it will cost too much and won’t accomplish what the salesperson says. I have relied almost entirely on bank accounts and the low-cost mutual funds called index funds — and I’ve done just fine, thank you very much.

To get started on your financial plan, get your records together. Create separate files for bank statements; insurance policies; the latest reports from your mutual fund company or brokerage firm; statements from your pension, annuity or retirement plan; records of any other source of income you receive; and a list of your debts.

People who have been single for a long time usually have a handle on their money. The problems arise when you’re married and your spouse has always managed the money. Sit down with him (sadly, it’s almost always a him) and go through the files one by one. He can tell you what he’s been up to. If you have consumer debt, what’s the plan for paying it off? How has he been investing the retirement savings, and why? If your spouse isn’t organized himself, now is the time to find out. You especially need to know how much income you’ll have from Social Security and savings if he dies first, and what kind of lifestyle it will support. If he has life insurance, check the annual statement to learn how long the policy will last (not all insurance lasts for life).

If you’re widowed, you can leave his arrangements in place while you figure out what you want to do. While you’re learning, put any life insurance proceeds in the bank. For higher interest rates, check online banks such as Ally and Synchrony, both FDIC insured.

While you’re at it, find out where your money goes. If you don’t have a working budget already, go over your bank statements and bills to see how much money is coming in and going out. This will take time, but without this information it’s not possible to plan. If too much money is going out, well, you know what to do.

(Originally published in The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)

Securing Income for Life

A bucket investment strategy may help savings last longer

We all know — or think we know — that the older we get, the more our money should be kept safe. We gradually hold less in stocks and more in bonds.

But is your caution risking your future? Yes, says Michael Kitces, director of research for the Pinnacle Advisory Group in Columbia, Md. On average, we’re living longer and not earning much on quality bonds and bank CDs, he says. If we huddle around investments that cannot grow, the risk rises that we’ll run out of money.

What if we reversed the conventional rule and gradually held more money in stocks, rather than less, after we retired?

When I first heard that idea, I said, “Nuts. High risk.” But as I read the new research, I changed my mind. It’s actually an approach that could make your retirement savings last longer and, potentially, leave more for heirs.

Lower your risk

Think of it as a “three-bucket” strategy, Kitces says.

In one bucket you hold cash to help cover expenses for the current year. That’s grocery money. Keep enough to pay bills not covered by other income, such as Social Security, a pension or part-time work.

In the second bucket, you own short- and intermediate-term bond mutual funds, with dividends reinvested. You gradually add to your bonds during your preretirement and immediate post retirement years. By age 60 or 65, these first two buckets might hold 70 percent of your retirement investments. Every year, you take money from the bond bucket to replenish your cash. If interest rates rise, you’ll be using your dividends to buy higher-rate bonds, which will partly offset your market losses. (Prices of existing bonds fall when interest rates rise.)

The remaining 30 percent of your money goes into the third bucket, invested in mutual funds that own U.S. and international stocks. You don’t expect to touch these stock funds for 10 to 15 years.

As time passes and you sell bond shares to pay your expenses, that bucket shrinks. The percentage of savings that you hold in stocks will gradually rise. You won’t have to sell when the market drops. In fact, your dividends will be buying you more stocks on the cheap. By the time your bond bucket runs low, your bucket of stocks will have grown in value, maybe by a lot. That’s money for your later years.

When withdrawing cash from your bond funds, follow the 4 percent rule for making money last for life. Start with an amount equal to 4 percent a year of all your savings (counting both stocks and bonds) and raise it by the inflation rate in each subsequent year. For example, say you have $100,000 — $70,000 in bonds, $30,000 in stocks. Your first withdrawal would be $4,000, and would rise from there. (If you take more than 4 percent, your savings might run out too soon.)

If your investments are mainly in a 401(k) or individual retirement account, it’s easy to switch between stocks and bonds. If not, you’ll have to consider taxes when you make a change or use new savings to bring the stock or bond bucket to the right size.

What makes this three-bucket strategy low-risk? First, your bonds secure your grocery money for at least 15 years. Second, if the market crashes when you first retire, you have only a modest amount in stocks and can afford to wait for a recovery. (People who sold after the 2008 crash came to regret it.)

Focus on growth

Wyatt Lee, portfolio manager for the mutual fund group T. Rowe Price, agrees that relying on “safe” investments won’t work. “You need a substantial amount of equities to maintain your income for life,” he says. Assuming a 30-year retirement, you’d spend half your money in the first 15 years and half in the second 15 years. The later money should be invested for growth.

Lee takes a more familiar approach — reduce your exposure to stocks as you age. But he starts out high. At age 65, he advises a stock fund allocation of 55 percent. Your 4 percent withdrawals would come from both stocks and bonds. At 75, you’d still have 42 percent in stocks. If a bear market hit just when you retired, you’d take a larger loss than with Kitces’ approach. You’d gain it back but might be more tempted to sell.

Follow Kitces or Lee. Either way, you can’t give up on stocks.

(Originally published by The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)

Make Your Money Last

How much can you safely withdraw from your nest egg each year?

How long can your savings last? That’s a critical question if you’re planning to retire or have already left the full-time workforce. You have Social Security income and perhaps a pension. Maybe you have a part-time job or are collecting rents from a property you own. But sooner or later, you may have to rely on whatever financial nest egg you have accumulated — mutual funds, bank CDs, stocks, bonds and so on. How much can you withdraw each year and still expect your money to last for life?

For financial planners, the gold standard is 4 percent. You can afford to spend 4 percent of your savings in the first year you retire. In each subsequent year, you’d withdraw the same amount that you took in the previous year, plus an increase for inflation. If you stick to that rule and are properly invested, your money should last for at least 30 years and, in most cases, much longer. You should be financially safe.

Why 4 percent?

The 4 percent rule was developed by financial planner Bill Bengen of La Quinta, Calif., more than two decades ago. Looking back, it would have carried retirees successfully through the worst 30-year periods of the 20th century, including those starting in 1929 and 1973 (the year stagflation began). It’s too early to know the 30-year outcome for people who retired in 2000, but Bengen says that the rule is working so far.

The hitch, for many retirees, is in the words “properly invested.” Most withdrawal-rate research is based on the longtime performance of leading U.S. stocks, represented by Standard & Poor’s 500-stock average, and intermediate-term Treasury bonds. It assumes that you keep half your money in each (or in low-cost mutual funds that track those market indexes). If you diversify — 42.5 percent of your money in large stocks, 17.5 percent in small stocks and the rest in bonds — the initial “safe” withdrawal rate rises to 4.5 percent, Bengen says.

Many retirees wouldn’t dream of being that heavily invested in stocks. Some don’t trust stocks at all. You’re limiting your future, however, if you don’t invest at least some of your long-term money for growth. Those who rely entirely on fixed-income investments can safely withdraw no more than 2.5 percent of their savings in the first year plus annual inflation increases, says Wade Pfau, a professor of retirement income at the American College in Bryn Mawr, Pa.

Josh Cohen, head of the institutional defined contribution business at Russell Investments in Seattle, has a different approach. He says you can use the 4 percent withdrawal rate while keeping just 32 percent of your money in stocks with the rest in bonds. After 20 years, you should still have a large enough nest egg to buy an inflation-adjusted annuity that supports you for life.

Prepare to be nimble

But what if a 4 percent withdrawal rate isn’t high enough to pay your bills? If you’re 65 percent invested in stocks, says financial planner Jonathan Guyton of Cornerstone Wealth Advisors in Edina, Minn., you could safely start your withdrawals at 5.5 percent. The key is flexibility. You have to be prepared to cut back if the markets turn bad for several years — say, by refraining from taking inflation increases for a while.

Pfau, by contrast, thinks we might be entering a long period of poor performance for long-term investors, with stocks currently overvalued and interest rates too low. He advises retirees to start withdrawals at 3 percent and raise them only if the markets perform well.

All these calculations, by the way, are pretax. Whatever taxes you owe would be paid out of the withdrawals.

To make these spending rules work, stay the course. That means following the withdrawal plan and taking extra money only if markets go up for several years. If you overspend when you first retire, you should be prepared to cut spending later.

Conversely, if you sell when the market falls and miss the upturn, you’re way behind. You’ll have to begin again with the money you have left. You’re also off the charts if you own individual stocks or funds that don’t keep up with the market average. The simpler your investments, the more reliable your spending plan will be.

(Originally published in The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)

How to Financially Protect Your Spouse

When faced with decisions about pension benefits, shortsighted choices now can cause harm in the future

I had lunch recently with a friend whose husband, a teacher, retired five years ago. “We made a big mistake with his company pension,” she told me. “We took the wrong one.”

Pensions come in two versions — a larger check that covers only the lifetime of the person who earned it, and a smaller check that also covers the lifetime of his or her spouse. They chose the larger check to give themselves more money to spend. Now, they both wish they’d taken the version that covered her, too. The prospect of losing his pension income if he dies first has left her a little scared.

Unfortunately, that’s a common story — and not only for pension decisions. Caring partners each want the other to be financially protected, if left alone. But sometimes they make shortsighted choices or accidentally cut a spouse out of money that he or she needs by failing to submit the right paperwork. Here are four things couples should think about that can save a spouse from financial harm:

Leave a larger income

When will you start taking Social Security? A relative of mine, who retired (with pension) at 60 and now has a different and well-paying job, intended to take his Social Security at 62. When I heard that, I yelped. His wife has savings and a pension of her own, and they don’t need extra money now. If he waits until 66 to collect, his Social Security check will be 33 percent larger (plus inflation adjustments) than if he starts at 62. It will be a fat 76 percent higher if he waits until 70.

Money Matters

It’s common to say, “I’ll take Social Security at 62 so that, if I die early, I won’t have lost income that I should have had.” That could be a two-way mistake. First, if you’re healthy, you’ll probably live longer than you expect. By waiting to file for Social Security, you’re storing up extra income for your retirement’s later years. Second, married people shouldn’t think only of their incomes today. If the husband, say, was the main breadwinner, the longer he waits before collecting, the larger the income he’ll leave to his surviving spouse, if he dies first.

Check your individual retirement account beneficiary

Whoever you name on your IRA’s beneficiary form will get the money, whether it’s fair or not. Say that you divorced and remarried, named your new spouse as your heir in your will, but forgot to take your ex’s name off the IRA form. Your ex will get the money, even if the divorce decree said otherwise. You should clean up all your beneficiary forms when you divorce or marry, to avoid accidentally disinheriting a spouse.

Have the power of “I do”

Who will inherit the savings in your 401(k) or similar plans? Here, spouses have super-protection. When you marry, your spouse is entitled to every penny in your 401(k), from the moment you both say “I do.” That’s federal law. The beneficiary form is irrelevant, and so is your will. If you want a different outcome — for example, to leave part or all of your 401(k) to children of a previous marriage — you can ask your spouse to waive his or her rights. The waiver has to be in writing, notarized or witnessed by a plan representative, and filed with your plan.

This can’t be done in advance of the wedding — only a spouse can waive these rights. If you have a prenuptial agreement, it should include a promise to sign. And get thee to a notary right after the honeymoon or even before. In my personal case, there was a notary at the ceremony. My lovely husband signed even before the music struck up.

Guarantee lifetime benefits from a variable annuity

These annuities combine an investment with a guaranteed lifetime income. But the income normally lasts only for the buyer’s lifetime and ends if he or she dies. Any spousal benefits might cover only the annuity’s current investment value or a death payout, says annuity expert Kevin Loffredi, a vice president of investment research firm Morningstar. If you want the annuity to cover both lives, you generally have to pay more or accept a lower income guarantee. Couples often don’t realize that their annuity cuts out the survivor, says Mark Cortazzo of annuityreview.com, which evaluates variable annuities. Some salespeople also have no idea. If you venture into one of these complex contracts, think “spouse first.”

(Originally published in The AARP Monthly Bulletin.)